▲ STOKED OUT IN OAHU ▲
Billabong Pipe Masters & a little aloha spirit from a magical island...
Josh Kerr x Kelly Slater
Dane Reynolds
Billy Kemper
Gabriel Medina
John John Florence
Pipe Dreams
Solo Mission
The Sunset Sessions
I feel incredibly fortunate to have been able to spend this December in the Hawaiian Islands for both personal and work purposes this year. Although having been born in and spent most of my years growing up in California, I've had lifelong deep connections with Hawaii—with extended family living on different islands, as well as the fortune to have been included in numerous island vacations with my parents living in California.
Hawaii has become somewhat of a second home for me; a place I've consistently visited 1-2 times/year nearly the last two decades. Although there's absolutely no question I'm a California native, I do feel a special connection in my heart for Hawaii and I'd honestly split my working, living year 50/50 in between both locations if I had the ability to do so. There's a peace and energy in the Hawaiian environment which is indescribable and the people whom I've been blessed to connect with here (family or friends) have all graciously opened their homes and hearts in completely transparent, un-superficial, nonjudgmental ways which I have found to be a rarity while living on the mainland.
When people talk about spreading the "Aloha spirit" and stoke, I truly believe this is what they are talking about. The value of connecting with family (whether blood-related or not), friends, and positive-minded people to share life experiences and the beauty (whether physically surrounding or spiritually inside) of valuable moments in time...it doesn't matter if that's spent on a board in the ocean, watching an outstanding sunset amidst dark silhouetted palm trees on a beach, or enjoying a fantastic home-cooked meal with gracious people—I honestly feel the individuals who call these islands "home" really, truly know how to live and appreciate the value of life each day.
Yes, I ventured out to these islands to surf some epic waves, photograph amazing moments in life and enjoy warm sunny days on beaches in stylish swimsuits I can't ever wear back home in chilly 50 degree waters—but the most magical parts of being here, truly experiencing Hawaii and the spirit of aloha with family—I just can't describe in a blog post or capture in a photograph. You'll have to just get over here to experience it firsthand for yourself. I guarantee you won't be disappointed.
